Anthony Traina is one of the watch-collecting world's most widely-respected voices, notably serving as an Editor at the watch world's premier publication, HODINKEE, as well as the single operator of the weekly Rescapement newsletter. Through his reviews, considered industry insights, and photo reports of watch world happenings, Traina's unique perspectives on all things horological resonate with collectors like few others.

In Bezel’s exclusive interview, we sit down with the watch editor, photographer, and industry authority to discuss his introduction to the world of watches, his affinity for straightforward designs, plus the most prized watches in his personal collection.

In Conversation with Anthony Traina

Bezel: How did you get into watches? 

TT: First, I inherited a few of my grandpa's watches – nothing crazy, an Elgin from his time in the military, and the like – but I really got into it a few years after that when I decided that I wanted a "nice watch" to wear on my wedding day. Obviously, I had no idea how complex the answer to what a "nice watch" is or could be. I remember wondering how the hell something like a Daniel Wellington was $200 and a Nomos was so expensive at roughly ten times the cost. 

Still, I talked myself into buying a Nomos Tangente for my wedding day. At the time, it seemed like one of the most well-designed objects I'd ever seen. Soon after that, I fell into collecting vintage watches in particular, and I've been stuck ever since.  It started with more accessible vintage finds from brands like Movado, Mido, Eterna, and the like, but things quickly escalated, moving onto to Rolex, Cartier, and the rest.

Bezel: How did you come to working in watches? 

TT: Prior to working in watches I was practicing law, and after spending the time to hunt down a wedding watch, my passion naturally progressed into a full-on obsession. I then took to sharing that passion by way of photographing and writing about watches via Instagram, and my own publication, Rescapement. Naturally, that opened the door to freelance opportunities writing for HODINKEE and A Collected Man. 

Like a lot of people in this industry, I never really expected to have a career in something as niche as watches. I was admittedly a bit hesitant at first, but I figured I’d always regret not jumping at the opportunity to turn my passion into a career 

Bezel: What’s your favorite watch in your collection and why?  

TT: Nowadays, it would have to be my Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016. I wish I was able to keep every watch I’ve ever owned because you'd be able to see all of the other, eerily similar watches I've had that led to this Explorer. It’s just one of those watches that you learn about early on in your enthusiasm, and just immediately understand as being an absolutely perfect design.

I went from a vintage Hamilton Khaki Field, to a vintage Tudor Ranger, to an IWC Pilot's Watch Mark XII, and all kinds of other "field watches," but the 1016 is the ONE. It also brings me back to the first Rolex I ever bought, an Explorer Ref. 14270, so you could say I've always loved the model. With the reference 1016 being the ultimate, of sorts, I feel extremely lucky to have one every time I put mine on.

Bezel: What is it about field watches / watches with utilitarian aesthetics that speaks to you as a collector? 

TT: I’ll try my best not to invoke all the usual clichés. The way I see it, there’s a beauty to simple things that do their jobs really well without frills. I also think field watches have a unique ability to bring me back to my roots–fundamental watches like Timex Weekenders and Seiko SNK800’s. 

As someone that tends to prefer things that aren’t exactly flashy, they fit really well into my day-to-day life. I guess that’s the humble Midwesterner in me. 

Bezel: Can you share 3 must-have watches listed on Bezel right now?

TT:   Definitely.

Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Ref. 168860-3003

Very rarely does a modern release get it so right. The original Chopard 1860 from the 90s is representative of one of my favorite stories in modern watchmaking, and I think the new release in steel with a salmon-colored dial is even better.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3923R

Simply a great, classically styled Calatrava from the 90s. 

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 2531.80.00 

It’s the original James Bond Seamaster, and if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for me. Relatively speaking, it feels quite affordable for a future classic. 

Bezel: Throughout your career to date in watches, what’s been the most impactful watch you’ve come across? 

TT: That would likely be the original reference 96 Patek Philippe Calatrava. While I’ve never owned a Patek, there’s an undeniably enduring allure to a classic, vintage Calatrava. They wear nicely, and they’ve got such a universal appeal.

Even though Patek is known for its complications, there’s an undeniable beauty to the Calatrava's its well-executed simplicity. The same can be said of Lange’s time-only Saxonia references that feature the same level of finishing as their more complex offerings. 

Bezel: Why do you continue to enjoy collecting watches? 

TT:  Since I've gone from an enthusiast to someone with a full-time career in watches, my answer to this has changed drastically. In the beginning it was all about the hunt, but now, I genuinely feel like I'm able live vicariously through other collectors. You really have to learn to separate the appreciation of an object from actually owning it.

Having so many friends in watches, I hear so many stories about the watches they've found or hunted down, and often find myself getting just as much joy out of those stories as one of my own finds, though a little jealousy does still factor into the equation.

I’m also continually excited by the finds I see popping up at auction, being offered by dealers, and entering the collections of people I’m proud to call friends. While so much of watch history might feel settled, a great deal of it is still being discovered, changing with each and every day as we continue to learn more.

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- Isaac Wingold

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