Geneva’s spring ritual has become familiar by now: Tudor enters the fair not just as Rolex’s scrappy sibling but as a fully-formed maison with a design language and collector base all its own. 2025 is no exception. This year’s novelties offer exactly the kind of incremental, but undeniably satisfying, updates we’ve come to expect—watches that won’t send shockwaves through the community but will quietly win wrists. True to form, Tudor continues to refine rather than reinvent, doubling down on the things that made its modern catalog essential in the first place.

Tudor Black Bay 58

The headline is simple but effective: the beloved Black Bay 58 arrives with a new burgundy dial and bezel, leaning noticeably closer to a rich cherry red when seen under the lights of Palexpo. In person, it’s warmer, less stark than the older iteration — a small shift, but one that immediately gives the watch a more mature, quietly luxurious air.

What’s more meaningful, though, is the technical leap. The BB58 is now METAS-certified, carrying the full Master Chronometer designation. For the uninitiated, that means it meets rigorous standards for accuracy (within 0/+5 seconds per day), anti-magnetism (up to 15,000 gauss), water resistance (still rated at 200m), and a boosted power reserve. Tudor’s adoption of METAS isn’t just for bragging rights — it’s a tangible upgrade that collectors have been waiting for, especially as Tudor positions itself more confidently alongside Omega in the tool watch space.

Bracelet options have evolved, too. For the first time, the BB58 is available on a five-link bracelet, giving it a slightly dressier, more articulate presence. Of course, the familiar faux-rivet three-link remains, now accompanied by a well-executed cut-to-size rubber strap. All three configurations feature the T-fit clasp—a quiet triumph in daily wear. The result? A BB58 that stays true to the formula but feels sharper, better sorted, and finally certified to a level enthusiasts have long wanted.

Tudor Black Bay 68

Perhaps the most intriguing release this year is the all-new Black Bay 68 — not a variant, but a new pillar. With a 43mm case, it’s an immediate counterpoint to the downsizing trend we’ve seen across the industry, including within Tudor’s own range. Available in both classic Tudor blue (a subtle nod to the late-60s Marine Nationale-era Submariners) and an understated sun-brushed silver, the BB68 walks a fine line between heritage and contemporary.

Unlike the smaller BB58, the 68 does away with faux rivets on the bracelet, favoring a cleaner, more modern execution. It’s a small detail, but one that signals Tudor’s willingness to offer a less nostalgically styled option for those who want vintage-adjacent proportions without fully committing to the retro playbook.

This isn’t Tudor’s Submariner reboot, and it’s not trying to be. The BB68 feels like a contemporary sports watch with just enough DNA from the Snowflake and 79090-era divers to make it familiar. It’s for collectors who still appreciate the presence of a larger watch—a refreshing stance when most brands seem to be locked into the 36–39mm sweet spot.

Tudor Black Bay Pro

The Black Bay Pro gets the most predictable—but welcome—update of the lineup: an opaline white dial. In practice, it reads as a matte silver with soft texture, giving the watch an entirely different character compared to the original black-dial release. The Pro has always flirted with Explorer II territory, and this change brings it even closer to that aesthetic, without fully abandoning its own identity.

Mechanically, nothing has change —the watch still houses the MT5652 GMT movement with a 70-hour power reserve and the signature orange-yellow 24-hour hand. But with the white dial, the Pro suddenly feels more versatile, less utilitarian, and, frankly, more wearable for those who found the black dial a bit too stark.

Is it a radical reimagining? Not at all. But the Pro now feels less like a niche GMT and more like a core collection staple—exactly the kind of iterative tweak Tudor has gotten very good at.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

In typical Tudor fashion, the Black Bay Chrono receives a quiet but appreciated update. Both the panda and reverse panda versions are now available on either the three-link or the newly introduced five-link bracelet. Each option comes fitted with the T-fit clasp, finally bringing the Chrono’s ergonomics up to the standard set by the rest of the Black Bay family.

It’s not flashy, but it’s the kind of change that signals Tudor is listening. The Black Bay Chrono has been a low-key fan favorite since its launch, and the improved bracelet options—particularly the less tool-ish five-link—give it more versatility. Sometimes the smallest changes make the biggest difference when it comes to actual wrist time.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Then there’s the Pelagos Ultra—Tudor’s unapologetic flex piece. At 43mm and cased entirely in grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 titanium caseback, this is easily the most technically ambitious dive watch the brand has released to date. It boasts a 1,000-meter water resistance rating, which is frankly unnecessary for most collectors—and exactly the point.

The Ultra is powered by the METAS-certified MT5612-U movement, delivering a 65-hour power reserve and the peace of mind that comes with anti-magnetism and extreme precision. Visually, the standout detail is the turquoise Pelagos text on the dial—not quite the full “Flamingo blue” of previous special editions, but close enough to make collectors smile.

There’s a certain charm to Tudor’s commitment here. The Pelagos Ultra is overbuilt in the best way, not because it needs to be, but because someone in Geneva clearly thought it would be fun to make a dive watch this serious. And for the desk divers who make up much of the Pelagos customer base, it’s an irresistible proposition.

The 2025 Takeaway

Tudor’s 2025 releases won’t dominate headlines the way their early Black Bay launches did, but they don’t have to. What we’re seeing is a brand settling comfortably into its own rhythm — updating, refining, and occasionally throwing in a curveball (see: BB68 and Pelagos Ultra). The ongoing tension between vintage inspiration and modern tool watch pragmatism remains central, but Tudor seems content to keep walking that line — and doing it better than most.

For those looking to explore Tudor’s current offerings, including these novelties when they hit, you can browse Bezel's entire selection of Tudor listings here.

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