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The New Guard: How Women Are Reshaping Watch Collecting

Discover how women are transforming luxury watch collecting with iconic pieces like the Cartier Panthère, Rolex Lady-Datejust, and Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak. From what's on the wrists of Kylie Jenner to Hailey Bieber, explore the watches redefining modern collecting culture.

By

Team Bezel

June 5, 2025

/

7 min read

Here's something that might surprise you: wristwatches were originally made for women. Back when gentlemen carried pocket watches, strapping a timepiece to your wrist was considered delicate and feminine. Fast-forward a century, and somehow watch collecting became this exclusive boys' club where women were handed pink dials and shrunk-down men's models as afterthoughts.

But walk into any serious watch event lately and you'll notice the landscape shifting. Women aren't just participating anymore–they're setting the agenda. And brands are finally paying attention, moving beyond lazy gender stereotypes toward pieces that actually understand how women engage with luxury.

Photo via Rolex

Rolex Lady-Datejust: The Foundation

When Rolex unveiled the Datejust in 1945, that automatic date change at midnight was revolutionary stuff. The Lady-Datejust carries that same innovative spirit forward in a 28mm case that feels intentionally proportioned rather than apologetically small.

What's fascinating about today's versions is how Rolex approaches materials. They blend their proprietary 904L steel with solid 18k gold in what they call "Rolesor." That 904L isn't just marketing speak, it's the same corrosion-resistant steel used in aerospace applications. The customization options are practically endless too. Blue dial with diamond bezel? Champagne with smooth steel? All possible and available on Bezel.

Inside, the Caliber 2236 movement showcases modern watchmaking with a silicon hairspring that's virtually antimagnetic, plus 55 hours of power reserve. It's engineering designed for women who actually live in their watches.

Photo via Cartier

Cartier Panthère de Cartier: Icon Status

The panther has been Cartier's spirit animal since 1914, when the famed Maison's haute-joaillerie director Jeanne Toussaint started incorporating the big cat into everything she touched. The panther represented something sophisticated women understood instinctively–beauty with an edge.

The Panthère watch arrived in the '80s and immediately found its people. Women who got that real luxury doesn't announce itself. The design flows seamlessly from case to bracelet without obvious transition points. Today's steel version strikes perfect balance between special occasion glamour and everyday confidence, with diamonds positioned to catch light at just the right angles.

Kylie Jenner has been making the case for the Panthère's modern relevance, wearing the newly-introduced Ref. WJPN0060 everywhere from casual Instagram content to courtside seats at Knicks games. That range perfectly captures what makes this watch work for contemporary life.

Photo via Bulgari

Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas: Sculptural Statement

Snakes have captivated human imagination for thousands of years with connotations of rebirth, wisdom, seduction, and power. When Bulgari created their first serpent watches in 1948, they were creating wearable mythology.

The real achievement is the Tubogas construction technique. Bulgari twists and curves gold bands to create that distinctive coiled effect without using a single soldered joint. Current versions blend rose gold with stainless steel, showing how the design has evolved while keeping its essential character. When your bracelet is this sculptural, you don't need complications competing for attention.

Even Elizabeth Taylor notably wore a Serpenti while filming Cleopatra, which tells you everything about the watch's dramatic appeal. It's designed for women who want their accessories to start conversations, who view subtlety as optional rather than required.

Photo via Cartier

Cartier Baignoire: Geometric Elegance

The Baignoire proved luxury watches don't need to be round. When Cartier introduced this oval case shape in the 1950s, it was genuinely radical. The name means "bathtub" in French, which sounds prosaic until you understand how those curves create perfect visual flow.

You can find the Baignoire in different expressions depending on your style. Traditional versions work beautifully for formal situations, while bangle variants feel more artistic and statement jewelry-esque. Either way, Cartier clearly considered how the watch actually sits on your wrist, from its crown placement that doesn't dig in, and case curves that effortlessly follow natural contours.

The watch has found natural champions among artists and creative types. Jhené Aiko posted a mirror selfie wearing her Baignoire back in March, while Lana del Rey shared a photo wearing the yellow gold bangle version just last week. Both musicians seem drawn to pieces that blur boundaries between timepiece and art object.

Photo via Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak: Breaking Barriers

Gerald Genta's 1972 Royal Oak design broke every rule about luxury watchmaking. Steel instead of precious metal, integrated bracelet, that entrancing octagonal bezel. On paper, it should have been a disaster, but became one of the most influential designs ever. The Mini Royal Oak scales it to 23mm without losing any essential character.

The "Frosted Gold" surface treatment deserves special recognition. AP borrowed this technique from high jewelry, hammering the case with diamond-covered tools. The result creates texture that catches light in ways traditional polishing can't match.

Hailey Bieber recently made headlines when she paired her white gold "Frosted Gold" Mini Royal Oak with a Marine Serre watch bracelet dress at a Rhode pop-up during the Miami Grand Prix. The styling choice felt unexpected but completely natural–luxury sports watch meeting haute couture without any forced awkwardness.

Photo via Rolex

The Bigger Picture

These five watches represent something larger than individual style choices. They're evidence of how women are reshaping watch collecting - influencing which pieces get attention, how brands approach design, what stories the community tells. Female collectors bring different priorities: versatility across different life contexts, personal expression alongside horological excellence, connections between watches and broader conversations about style and identity.

The pieces featured here aren't "women's watches" in any limiting sense. They're exceptional watches that resonate strongly with female collectors, reflecting a collecting culture that's becoming more inclusive without sacrificing expertise. As more women build serious collections, the entire hobby becomes richer and more dynamic for everyone.

About Bezel

Bezel is the top-rated marketplace for buying and selling luxury watches. We give you access to tens of thousands of the most collectible watches from the world's top professional sellers and private collectors. Every watch sold goes through our industry-leading in-house authentication process, so you can buy, sell, and bid with confidence.

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